Archive for the 'Travel' Category

13
May
09

The Great Belt bridge and the confusion

A few weeks ago I took a flight from Bromma airport in Stockholm toward Brussels. This airport is quite close to where I live and I wanted a window seat on the plane, to see my home from up there. So I did the web-checkin and chose a window seat on the left side of the plane, knowing that that was the right side. The left side, that is.

But unfortunately, the plane went up a little bit more to the left, screwing up my plans. The route was a little bit different than most of the planes I watch through my apartment window taking off from Bromma. Therefore my home, along with the center of Stockholm and all the beautiful buildings, were on the right side. Bummer!

A little bit sad, I started to read my book and half an hour after the take off I look out the window and I see the view from the picture below.

The Great Belt bridge

First I thought it’s the Öresundsbron, linking Sweden with Denmark and I resumed the reading more satisfied. But later, when I saw the image on the computer, I noticed the bridge doesn’t look quite as Öresundsbron.

One of my friends on Flickr recognized it as the Great Belt bridge between the Danish islands of Zealand and Funen. Here it is on the map:


View Larger Map

11
May
09

A long weekend on Öland

The cottage

About 10km north of Kopingsvik you will se a road sign that says Aleklinta gard, and when you reach a gas station and you probably are going to see camels, turn left from road 136.

This is how part of the driving directions to Äleklinta Gård, our accommodation place on Öland, sounded like.

You probably are going to see camels” … come again? It must be a sign on the road, we concluded. But no, they were real camels, right there, in a farm next to the road. And just across the street from the llamas farm. The first time in my life that I see a camel for real is in Sweden, on Öland, an island in the south-east part of the country.

We checked-in our stuga (cottage), which you can see in the image below, just in time for a beautiful sunset over the sea.
Road to the cottage

The room’s window was toward the water and later that night, when I went to bed, I noticed that the light from the moon was reflecting from the water surface directly onto the ceiling. What’s better in this romantic environment than to watch Jackass: The Movie, on the small TV set sitting in the corner.

When reading about best conditions for outdoor photography, one is being told that early morning and the dusk give best light conditions. I’m not the kind of person willing to jump out of bed at 4-5-6am, to get the first rays of sunlight, but Saturday morning my throat had a different opinion. I woke up at 6 with a sore feel in the throat. It seemed like a good opportunity to take a walk on the beach, which was waiting just outside the door.
Morning
The sun was shining, with that morning soft light, the water was so calm, but the birds were very much awake and active. There weren’t many of them around, or as much as I noticed with my untrained eye, but the ones present were making as much noise as possible. Once in a while a passing duck was announcing its presence, breaking through the high pitch sounds made by other small and quick birds.

The south

Right after breakfast we started to explore the island. Öland has a long shape and its interest points are spread around the whole island, making driving around between them a little tiring. I think one needs at least 3 days to examine the whole island without missing anything. We had 1.5 days.

First on the list was the Borgholm Castle. I have nothing special to say about our visit there, aside from what you can read on the link.

ÖlandsbronAfter a quick lunch, our journey continued with a stop at the ceramic centre in Färjestaden, a place with plates, vases and all sort of decorative candle holders at sky-rocket prices. The place has a cozy cafe and a few steps further toward the water will bring you to a vantage point from where you can admire the 6km of Ölandsbron, the longest bridge in Sweden, which is the connection to the mainland.

Next stop, Långe Jan, the tallest lighthouse in Sweden, situated right on the south tip. Next to the lighthouse, there is one of the biggest bird observation points on the island. At the time we were there, I would estimate at least 500.000 euro worth of electronic and optical equipment being handled by all the bird watching enthusiasts around.

We wanted to get to the northern part of the island in the very same day, but the driver (me) was exhausted from the intense sunlight throughout the day and the strong and constant blowing wind. And highly unmotivated from the unending scrolling of the map of Öland, which made the destination in the north seem so far away from our location.

These being said, we concluded it’s better to postpone the trip to the north for the next day and have dinner in the town of Borgholm, then go and see the next spectacular sunset at the stuga. Which wasn’t that spectacular in any case. At least not as spectacular as the one in the first evening.

Traversing the island from east to west, to get to Borgholm, we passed by what could be described as a mini-airport. It was basically a big backyard of a house, with 3 small aircrafts pausing near the grass lane. I’m the last person you would want as a plane pilot, but even to me, the prospect of having my own small airport in the backyard seems pretty awesome.
Bird watchers
Borgholm is one of those nice little typical Swedish towns, with pedestrian streets in the center, sided by small shops. Another typical thing about this kind of Swedish town is that everything is closed in the evening, including most of the restaurants. Eventually, we managed to find one open, crowded with all the tourists absent from the suddenly chilly streets and the exhausted driver mentioned above was able to recover some of his senses.

The north

Next day, the north of the island unveiled to us with its Långe Erik, which is another lighthouse, and Trollskogen, a forest with old pine trees twisted by the wind, which looked pretty much the same as the woods in Lord of the rings.

Between Långe Erik and Trollskogen we made a short stop for coffee, in a house next to the road. An old lady took our order for 2 coffees and we paid for each 20 kronor (about 2 euro), which is a decent price for a coffee in Stockholm. She started to brew it and 10 minutes later, she came out in the garden, where we were seated, with a 2 liter pot full of coffee. I was aware that the Swedes drink probably more coffee than water and this confirmed it once more.

Öland is abundant with wild life, formed mainly by birds, but also hares, deers, moose and probably others. On the way to the northern part, we drove on a side road and stopped next to a small pond. The place was a micro universe, where we saw around 5 types of birds. One of the them was acting annoyed by our presence, making noises and moving in random circles above us. The reason: it had some eggs laid on a small grassy bulge right on the ground.

It is said that Öland hosts about 400 windmills. Given that it has a surface of 1344 sq km, then there are about 3.3 mills per sq km. This basically means they’re everywhere and some of them are very photogenic.

After leaving the island that day, we barely had time to drop by the castle in Kalmar. It was getting late and Stockholm was far away, at about 5 hours driving.

Here you may find more images from the trip and at this link some other nice photos from Öland.

Långe Jan

30
Apr
09

Kjerag attempt and Preikestolen

Continuing the visit in the expensively gorgeous Norway, we put up a plan to reach Kjerag and see the famous Kjeragbolten.

There are two ways to get there, I’ve been told.

. One is to drive 30km on a road from Sirdal, then hike for about 3 hours.

The second option is to take a ferry on the Lysefjord to Lysebotn and then climb 1000m to the top.

The not so enticing 1000m climb and the rental car smiling in the garage made us pick the first option. The scenery on the way there is gorgeous. Unfortunatelly, the road was closed a few km after Sirdal, because of the snow. So we stopped, switched to hiking boots and continued on foot on the road, to see the area. Even without reaching Kjerag, it made for a very nice road trip for a day.

If you get to Stavanger, you need to go and see Preikestolen.Not me This is the number one touristic attraction in the area. It’s a rock that looks like a pulpit, hence the name, the Pulpit rock. The 604m vertical wall straight down to the fjord seemed like the best cure for my acrophobia and agoraphobia.

Fortunatelly, the fog came promptly to the rescue, as we started the ascent. With the visibility reduced to 10-15m, the prospect of walking alongside the edge of the 600m drop became much easier. Also fortunatelly, 15 minutes after we started our descent back, the fog raised a little. We decided to get back to the rock and it was a good decision, as we were rewarded with about 5 minutes of visibility down toward the fjord.

This pleased us, it pleased a sweaty and improperly dressed for climbing guy, who got lost on the other side of the cliff, but eventually managed to find the right way and it certainly pleased the young couple eating potato chips, sitting centimeters from the abyss on the edge of the rock.

Here is a detailed story of the journey to Preikestolen, not our journey though, with hints on transportation.

Please check out the set of images from Norway on Flickr.

Abyss

29
Apr
09

Stavanger and around

As you may have noticed, sometimes I shift the focus away from Sweden, trying not to go too far. It happened again in the middle of April, this time remaining in Scandinavia, in Norway, more specifically in Stavanger and Rogaland region, where I went to visit a friend for a couple of days.

Mirrored Stavanger

Stavanger is not a quiet little town, as I was expecting. Coming late at night from the airport, I left behind the noise of the helicopters taking off to the oil platforms and I found the town noisy, with clubs swarming with people all around the centre. Every ten meters on the narrow streets with old wooden houses, groups of youngsters were smoking outside pubs, at around 3am, a time when probably most of the Stockholm inhabitans were sleeping.
Watching the kitesurfers
Next day, the only sunny one I got, I drove to see the famous sand beaches, which stretch for a few km, in between the North Sea and Sola airport. It’s a popular place for windsurfing, due to the generous supplies of wind.

While waiting for another helicopter to take off toward the oil platforms, I was watching a kitesurfer teaching another one how to handle the kite. Then the more experienced one went away on the sea until almost out of sight, leaving the novice crawling in the water near the shore, in a constant struggle to communicate with the kite.

I also paid a visit to the Petroleum Museum. At first, I was reluctant of seeing pipes and boring tubes filled with various types of oil and rocks, but I have to admit I found it rewarding, both information and entertainment wise. Besides, it’s interesting to see how Norway got so expensive that one can rent a car for more than double the price of the plane ticket there.

Enlightened by a 3D movie that shows some basic and at the same time, new to me, methods for extracting oil, we drove to an island called Rennesøy, north of Stavanger.

To get there, we passed though 2 tunnels under the water, one with the length of 4.5km and the other one going for 6km underneath another island. The journey led us to an island with landscapes formed of hills of green grass, much alike the ones in Braveheart, which seems to be completely covered by private farms, each with its own scent of manure. Water, islands, hills, rocks as far as the eye can see.

Norwegian scene

Please visit the set of images from Norway on Flickr.

02
Mar
09

Visiting Trosa

The previous weekend I went to visit a friend who works on an oil transporter ship, that berthed for a few hours in Oxelösund, about 100km south of Stockholm.

A work colleague told me that there isn’t much going on in Oxelösund, since it’s an industrial place and I should better stop on the way to visit a small town called Trosa.

So I spent a couple of hours there, walking along the water canal that goes through the town with the funny name (Trosa means underwear in Swedish), unintentionally scaring the ducks frozen by the cold wind.

Canal

I also went to Trosa Havsbad, a camping facility completely deserted at this time of the year. Probably during the summer days the place is packed with people sunbathing and swimming, as the map posted at the entrance shows. I was welcomed by a strong wind blowing one of the most dense snowfall I’ve ever seen.

Snowing

Some more images from Trosa.

30
Sep
08

6 hours in Riga

We interrupt the usual program here at Focus on Sweden with a description of the last weekend’s trip to Riga. After 17 hours of swinging on the cruise boat from Stockholm and a fairly bad breakfast we arrived in Riga.

It was 10:30 in the morning and the ferry back to Stockholm was leaving at 16:30, so we had close to 6 hours to discover this beautiful Baltic city.Park in Riga

10:30 – 11:30: Walk through the park next to the ferry terminal

On the cruise boat, they provide the travelers with small maps made especially for this kind of trip. A map contains a detailed view of the city center where people are more likely to spend the few hours available.

With the help of the map we got ourselves out of the ferry terminal and went through a beautiful park with small bridges over water canals, where couples getting married were coming for pictures.

11:30 – 13:30: Getting in the Old Town

After a visit to the Orthodox Cathedral and some more walking in a commercial part of the city, we went into the Old Town, named Vecriga in Latvian. There were a few activities in some of the public squares, with concerts, dances and barbecued street food.

It was fairly easy to spot these entertainment points from the tower of St Peter’s church, one of the city landmarks. There is an elevator in the church which takes you right up in the middle of the observation point from the tower, from where you get a great panoramic view over the whole city.

Autumn light

13:30 – 14:30: Taste of the Latvian cuisine

Following the visit in the tower it was time to seek for some local food.

The Latvians

It would’ve been nice to mingle with the locals and have some grilled sausages while watching the dance show, but we opted for a cozy and nice looking restaurant named Salve right next to the Town Hall Square. From the menu predominantly based on traditional Latvian and Russian cuisine, I went for a cabbage soup with veal and a dish with pork ears and I don’t regret the choice.

14:30 – 16:30: More Old Town drifting

With 2 more hours left until departure back to Stockholm, we continued the wandering through the Old Town. Wikitravel states you need half a day to walk around Vecriga (Old Town) and they’re probably right, since it seems to me we left a lot behind.

The timing of the visit was pretty good, with a lot of autumn colors all around, from tree leaves to the products on sale in the festive markets in the Old Town. If you plan your visit for the winter, here’s a charming review of Riga in the winter time.

Old Town street

Maybe we were lucky, but despite the negative reviews we found on the web before going to Riga, I found the city clean and bohemian looking, cheerful, colorful and enticing for a comeback.

Click here to see more images from Riga.

23
Sep
08

Final thoughts about the Norrbotten trip

This is the last post in this series about the trip to Norrbotten featuring a few more words about what I found out there.

Everybody has a sauna in the northThe sauna
Nearby the cottage we used, right on the shore of a lake, there is a little sauna. It has two small rooms, one being a shower and the other the sauna itself. At this time is a bit decayed, but I was told it was really nice to go and bathe in the lake and then spend some time inside in the heat. Add a beer, take away the plunging into the lake and I’m in. In the sauna.

Wild life keeps quiet
I heard there are now much more bears than they used to be in these areas, but we saw none. I was also a bit disappointed for not seeing any moose as in the trip to Dalarna, but one took a crap right next to the cottage during one night, probably in disgust after he sniffed the surströmming leftovers.

I got however “satisfied” by a few reindeers on the road to the polar circle (this was not supposed to sound the way it did) and I found out that the name for the polar circle in Sami is Napapiiri.

Fika meets blueberries
A common way of spending time and chatting is by organizing a fika, which means coffee accompanied by cookies. Very often the cookies are chunks of blueberry pie and you can see everybody walking around with blue lips, due to high blueberries consumption.

Krokträsk

Click here if you would like to see more pics from the trip.

02
Sep
08

4 nice places to visit in Norrbotten

This is the second post in a series dedicated to the trip taken last week in Norrbotten, the north-east of Sweden. First post was a short preview. In this one, I’ll give a brief description of the places we visited and which I recommend seeing if you come here.

Luleå

Wet roses
We landed in this lovely Nordic town one hour after taking off in Stockholm, so the journey was very short. They have a small and cozy airport and as soon as you exit the outside door you’re in the forest. Forest is the landmark of this area.

Gammelstad

Red houses in Gammelstad

Gammelstad is a very well preserved church village near Luleå, with more than 400 wooden houses arranged around a 15th-century stone church. The church is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and, if you were wondering, they accept donations made with the credit card.

Norra Sandsjärv

Located about 120km away from Luleå, Norra Sandsjärv is the village where we stayed for the 4 days spent there. The accommodation was offered by a cozy stuga (cottage), which will be the subject of an upcoming post here.
Discharge

The orange discharge you can see in the picture is not pollution from some chemicals, but decaying vegetable matter, named torv (peat) used as fuel.

Polar circle

This is not actually a place, but if you drive a bit up north from Norra Sandsjärv, in about 40km you’ll cross the Napapiiri (polar circle in Sami). High chances of seeing reindeers crossing the street (we saw about 15 on the way) or moose at dusk (we saw none). Zero chances of heat waves here.
Colored vegetation at the Polar circle

In the summer time, the things that you’ll encounter the most in these areas are: forest, lakes and mosquitoes. Our trip was taken at the end of August, so the mosquitoes were not that many. By not that many, I mean you’ll still be slapping your face every 5 seconds when standing outside in the evening. You definitely need protection from insects if you’re going there during the summer. Even if the mosquitoes population vary with the season, you can still count on the lakes and the forest.

31
Aug
08

Preview from a 4-days trip in north of Sweden

Just got back from a 4-days trip in Överkalix, north of Sweden.
Some of the highlights: reindeers, picking lingonberries and blueberries, mosquitoes, surströmming (rotten herring in a can), a boat trip, moose and bear meat stew.

The memory card holds 664 photos and the funny thing is that I like more than the usual 5% of them.

White reindeer

Please read also the rest of the posts about this trip:

14
Aug
08

Fun with birds

Coming back from Dalarna, we stopped on the way to Stockholm near a small lake to grab a bite.
As the ducks were starting to slobber and the seagulls to go berserk, I began throwing chunks of bread for their delight. This made them turn into interesting models for photos and if you don’t get too excited by this opportunity, like I did, and manage to keep the focus right most of the time, like I didn’t, you may end up with a couple of interesting photos.