Archive for September, 2008

30
Sep
08

6 hours in Riga

We interrupt the usual program here at Focus on Sweden with a description of the last weekend’s trip to Riga. After 17 hours of swinging on the cruise boat from Stockholm and a fairly bad breakfast we arrived in Riga.

It was 10:30 in the morning and the ferry back to Stockholm was leaving at 16:30, so we had close to 6 hours to discover this beautiful Baltic city.Park in Riga

10:30 – 11:30: Walk through the park next to the ferry terminal

On the cruise boat, they provide the travelers with small maps made especially for this kind of trip. A map contains a detailed view of the city center where people are more likely to spend the few hours available.

With the help of the map we got ourselves out of the ferry terminal and went through a beautiful park with small bridges over water canals, where couples getting married were coming for pictures.

11:30 – 13:30: Getting in the Old Town

After a visit to the Orthodox Cathedral and some more walking in a commercial part of the city, we went into the Old Town, named Vecriga in Latvian. There were a few activities in some of the public squares, with concerts, dances and barbecued street food.

It was fairly easy to spot these entertainment points from the tower of St Peter’s church, one of the city landmarks. There is an elevator in the church which takes you right up in the middle of the observation point from the tower, from where you get a great panoramic view over the whole city.

Autumn light

13:30 – 14:30: Taste of the Latvian cuisine

Following the visit in the tower it was time to seek for some local food.

The Latvians

It would’ve been nice to mingle with the locals and have some grilled sausages while watching the dance show, but we opted for a cozy and nice looking restaurant named Salve right next to the Town Hall Square. From the menu predominantly based on traditional Latvian and Russian cuisine, I went for a cabbage soup with veal and a dish with pork ears and I don’t regret the choice.

14:30 – 16:30: More Old Town drifting

With 2 more hours left until departure back to Stockholm, we continued the wandering through the Old Town. Wikitravel states you need half a day to walk around Vecriga (Old Town) and they’re probably right, since it seems to me we left a lot behind.

The timing of the visit was pretty good, with a lot of autumn colors all around, from tree leaves to the products on sale in the festive markets in the Old Town. If you plan your visit for the winter, here’s a charming review of Riga in the winter time.

Old Town street

Maybe we were lucky, but despite the negative reviews we found on the web before going to Riga, I found the city clean and bohemian looking, cheerful, colorful and enticing for a comeback.

Click here to see more images from Riga.

23
Sep
08

Final thoughts about the Norrbotten trip

This is the last post in this series about the trip to Norrbotten featuring a few more words about what I found out there.

Everybody has a sauna in the northThe sauna
Nearby the cottage we used, right on the shore of a lake, there is a little sauna. It has two small rooms, one being a shower and the other the sauna itself. At this time is a bit decayed, but I was told it was really nice to go and bathe in the lake and then spend some time inside in the heat. Add a beer, take away the plunging into the lake and I’m in. In the sauna.

Wild life keeps quiet
I heard there are now much more bears than they used to be in these areas, but we saw none. I was also a bit disappointed for not seeing any moose as in the trip to Dalarna, but one took a crap right next to the cottage during one night, probably in disgust after he sniffed the surströmming leftovers.

I got however “satisfied” by a few reindeers on the road to the polar circle (this was not supposed to sound the way it did) and I found out that the name for the polar circle in Sami is Napapiiri.

Fika meets blueberries
A common way of spending time and chatting is by organizing a fika, which means coffee accompanied by cookies. Very often the cookies are chunks of blueberry pie and you can see everybody walking around with blue lips, due to high blueberries consumption.

Krokträsk

Click here if you would like to see more pics from the trip.

08
Sep
08

Wild culinary temptations in Norrbotten

Wild temptation

After visiting the old church in Gammelstad, we went to Margaretas Värdshus, a nice inn nearby the church with traditional Swedish cuisine, to fill up the bellies. The bellies gladly accepted some Vild Frestelse (Wild Temptation), which is a sort of pie containing mixed meat from bear, moose and reindeer. I have no picture with the pie, but you may admire the pepper used to spice it up.
Ground pepper

Surströmming – the feat of endurance

During this trip I was introduced to surströmming, a special delicacy which I’ve been planning toSurströmming try since I came to Sweden. Surströmming is fermented herring in a can. Reading more about it here will give you an idea of what it is, but it will not make you feel the smell. It basically smells like dead animal. Not recently.

Surströmming is traditionally eaten on a mix of boiled potatoes and onion, put on hard bread which was previously buttered. Keep a glass of beer nearby. The taste was quite all-right, but it was very hard to overcome the stench ordeal, so I gave up after one sandwich and a half. I highly recommend trying the surströmming, but don’t forget to open the can outside, or you’ll have to sleep over by some friends.

Lingon harvest

Lingonberries are another landmark of the region. Only by collecting the one in front of the cottage, in about 30 squared meters, we obtained about 5 kg of berries. Very good for pies. Actually, I’m eating some as I write this post.
Lingon

Things you’re not supposed to eat

Besides McDonald’s, which seem not very welcome up here, Amanita muscaria is yet another thing you’re not supposed to eat up-north. Or anywhere else for that matter. It is said that the vikings used it for drugs. Probably the addiction was fed by the fact that it’s all over the place. I haven’t seen so many mushrooms in my whole life, as I saw in these 4 days in the north.
Amanita muscaria

02
Sep
08

4 nice places to visit in Norrbotten

This is the second post in a series dedicated to the trip taken last week in Norrbotten, the north-east of Sweden. First post was a short preview. In this one, I’ll give a brief description of the places we visited and which I recommend seeing if you come here.

Luleå

Wet roses
We landed in this lovely Nordic town one hour after taking off in Stockholm, so the journey was very short. They have a small and cozy airport and as soon as you exit the outside door you’re in the forest. Forest is the landmark of this area.

Gammelstad

Red houses in Gammelstad

Gammelstad is a very well preserved church village near Luleå, with more than 400 wooden houses arranged around a 15th-century stone church. The church is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and, if you were wondering, they accept donations made with the credit card.

Norra Sandsjärv

Located about 120km away from Luleå, Norra Sandsjärv is the village where we stayed for the 4 days spent there. The accommodation was offered by a cozy stuga (cottage), which will be the subject of an upcoming post here.
Discharge

The orange discharge you can see in the picture is not pollution from some chemicals, but decaying vegetable matter, named torv (peat) used as fuel.

Polar circle

This is not actually a place, but if you drive a bit up north from Norra Sandsjärv, in about 40km you’ll cross the Napapiiri (polar circle in Sami). High chances of seeing reindeers crossing the street (we saw about 15 on the way) or moose at dusk (we saw none). Zero chances of heat waves here.
Colored vegetation at the Polar circle

In the summer time, the things that you’ll encounter the most in these areas are: forest, lakes and mosquitoes. Our trip was taken at the end of August, so the mosquitoes were not that many. By not that many, I mean you’ll still be slapping your face every 5 seconds when standing outside in the evening. You definitely need protection from insects if you’re going there during the summer. Even if the mosquitoes population vary with the season, you can still count on the lakes and the forest.